Is a “Natural Wine” a Scam? 7 Brooklyn Wine Experts Set You Straight

What exactly is a Natural Wine? Critic Robert Parker just called it “one of the major scams being foisted on wine consumers.”

Part of the problem is that there’s no official definition of what “natural wine” means. ”Proponents claim that the natural approach allows the true nature of the wines and their terroir to shine more brightly,” Nona Brooklyn writes. “Detractors argue that the lack of clear standards renders the term meaningless, and suggests unfair or non-existent divisions within the winemaking community.”

Nona Brooklyn, following up on Eric Asimov’s recent article on the incendiary debate over the meaning of ‘natural wines,’  asked 7 Brooklyn wine experts to weigh in on the controversy. Highlights:

“Are natural wines any good? This question should be answered using the same tools that a wine drinker brings to any wine: Is it a pleasure to drink? … If it has ambition to be a great wine, is it complex, balanced, and does it possess length?”  - Christopher Nicholson, Winemaker, Red Hook Winery

“The ‘natural wine’ movement is suffering from the same issues as the current ‘occupy movement’ in that no one really knows what it encompasses … For me, a ‘natural wine’ would need to be grown completely without the use of pesticides and sulfur, left to ferment with native yeasts, aged without the use of sulfur or any other additives, and bottled un-fined and unfiltered.” - Conor McCormac, Winemaker, Brooklyn Winery

“There is a part of me that responds to this whole natural wine movement in the same way that I respond to a high school clique full of the ‘cool kids.’ … it seems to be almost exclusionary in practice, which to me is not what the wine industry should be about. “ - Talitha Whidbee, Vine Wine, Williamsburg

“More and more, we care about sustainability. … We shop at the farmer’s market, buy organic produce when possible and care about what we eat.  Why should wine be any different?” - Michael Andrews, Natural Wine Company, Williamsburg

“We, like Eric, try to avoid the crazy vitriol regarding natural wines  … We don’t think people should fight about this stuff.  They should just drink good wine.” - Jeff Patten, Uva Wines and Spirits, Williamsburg

“The ‘natural wine movement,’ is just an attempt to build a community of like-minded artisanal winemakers, retailers, restaurateurs, wine drinkers.” - Michael Yarmark, Thirst Wine Merchants, Fort Greene

“At the end of the day, it comes down to the taste of the wine itself and whether it is good or not.” - Ron Kyle, Dry Dock Wine and Spirits, Red Hook

-via What’s The Ruckus Over ‘Natural Wine’? Brooklyn Wine Makers & Purveyors Weigh In >> Nona Brooklyn.

Photo: Launch event at the Natural Wine Company, Brooklyn by Katie Sokoler.