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favorite cookbooks - multinational to old standby? — Brooklynian

favorite cookbooks - multinational to old standby?

alafairnadia
edited November -1 in Brooklyn Eats
hey all. so, in the VERY near future I'll be cooking a whole lot more. I love cooking, so I'm cool with it. but, given that I've always lived in big cities, figuring out how to make my own buttermilk, for instance, has never been a priority for me. so I kinda need a book on the basics from when, well, you couldn't buy buttermilk on every street corner (or sourdough starter, resolve an altitude issue, etc.) a complete reference, if you will, to the classic recipes - from the simplest thing (timing a perfect hard boiled egg at 9k feet) to classic sauces (romescu, for instance - I hate that bourdain guy) to beef wellington (well, I know that one, but you catch my drift, I hope). my poor mother probably still suffers from when I found a recipe for baked alaska at the age of 8 and was determined to make it - thankfully, when we moved to miami, we found this awesome cuban restaurant that made this ghetto, yet way better version with fluff instead of merengue and a blow torch. but I digress.

I love a lot of global cuisine. I'd love to get 3 or 4 solid spanish cookbooks - new takes, old classics, true tapas (not the bullshit tapas books you find in bookstores obvi made for stupid americans), etc. I also love indian food - meat or veggie, ethiopian, korean, mexican (from all over, though I'm a bit hesitant about the west coast, just cause I've only been there as a tiny kid, not as an older child or adult. but I love stuff from the east coast - fresh seafood caught two hours ago and thrown on the grill in merida is a wonderful thing as are tamales in oaxaca), turkish/most middle eastern (minus the mystery spice that smells like vomit to me and makes me gag. can't describe it that way to someone's face as they're downing something that reeks of it so I renamed it especie gomito and claim to be allergic to it.), japanese - especially non-sushi stuff, though I do have a small addictive issue with sushi rice covered in those msg laden shaker thingys, and I adore freshly made, custard textured tofu. what else? oh! d'oh! obvi many regions of china (yes, I did mail myself an electronic rice cooker that will make me congee - can't live without the crack), vietnamese (!!!!!!!), maybe thai but I'm not dying for it. american southern, texas bbq and tex-mex are also interesting, though my grandmother, when able to access her memory, can help me with a lot of the southern, and my aunt or mom can help when she can't, so that works. and I can hack a beef brisket bbq once I figure out how to describe the part of the cow I need at the butchers. and tex-mex is also something I get from living there, but what if I can't remember the components to a certain dish? maybe northern mexican is better - need to know how to make machacado - I have a small addiction to that shit with eggs in a tortilla for bkfst. and maybe for contrast, some other carib books (sweet tea - I did email myself a copy of the doubles recipe you posted about on your blog and already have a great curry goat recipe) - but not of the hispanic varietal. I plan to pick dad's brain for the cuban recipes and stick with them. it's fufu, not mofongo! :D

I already mailed myself thru amazon a batali book and the jamie oliver at home book (mostly because he does a lot of outdoor wood oven and grill cooking that is kinda classic, what to do with a freshly shot quail, etc.) so I think between what I already have in my arsenal (sorry mario, I know you boil your potatoes for gnocchi but I like to bake mine with garlic and shallots and leave that all in the dough) I have enough to fill my italian and UK farm/organic cooking for a bit.

I'd say I want a veggie/vegan cookbook but that'd be a lie. I prefer eating food that isn't trying to imitate the texture of meat, so I'd rather get a tofu recipe from asians, etc. just my own thing. and J#### (fellow cuban) - I tried seitan again and seriously, the flavor, for whatever reason, is a bit noxious to me and I can't deal with it. I'd rather go without protein and drop dead than eat that stuff. seriously. and this was homemade by a vegan hippie expat from the pacific northwest.

so, if there's a go-to book for your favorite food that, for lack of a better word, is authentic (as in not modified for stupid americans who can't be bothered to figure out how to acquire, make or substitute ingredients on their own), please tell me about it. may not get them all first go-around, but will definitely keep the list handy. kinda what I mean is that, for instance, there's a lebanese place in quito that sometimes substitutes fresh peas for garbanzos in falafel and even hummus when garbanzos are scarce - they comprehend that fresh and local is better than moving heaven and earth to acquire an ingredient, and the results are slightly, obviously different, but equally simple, pure and delicious as the more "authentic" versions they can easily make in lebanon. so, I'm not looking for dumbed down - if I can't get my hands on mustard greens, in with the turnip greens, etc.

thanks!
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Comments

  • i admit i didn't read all of that (sorry). but here are some favorites:

    SOUTHERN/GENERAL
    Mama Dip's Kitchen. Great for the general stuff you were asking about, like how to cook eggs, as well as my go-to for biscuit, fried chicken, etc. Occasionally she calls for marg when butter or lard is the truth. An easy adjustment.

    Edna Lewis's The Taste of Country Cooking. THE classic southern cookbook. Great seasonal meals, and a memoir of her childhood in on a freetown farm. I also like her last cookbook, The Gift of Southern Cooking with Scott Peacock, but it is fussy in sections. I just ignore those parts. This does tell you how to sour milk for emergency buttermilk (for real buttermilk, you'll need to be churning your own butter).

    Bill Neal Southern Cooking. A great cookbook, with a bit more breadth than the last couple. Also love Bill Neal books with his recipes from his Frenchy-Southern restaurants, especially Remembering Bill Neal. Nice for fancier nights, awesome cakes.

    INDIAN
    I actually have had good luck with the generic Borders "Indian" and "Curry" books, by Shehzad Husain and Rafi Fernandez, as long as you steer clear of the few recipes in each that are obvi English. They have decent spice mixtures. Everything is better if you cook each step A LOT longer than they say, per my Punjabi Londoner friend. Here are a bunch of books with the same author.

    MOROCCAN
    Paula Wolfert, Couscous And Other Good Food From Morocco. You need this one. You will like this food, it's easy, and it's good for adapting to local environments. Plus, you've got to read the section on hash candy. Hilarious. Wolfert wrote it in the 70s, and was definitely the weird white lady who invades your kitchen and wants to know everything. I just feel like you'll get her.
  • oh, it's old hat, of course, but the joy of cooking is awfully handy for substitutions, weight via volume, and basic stuff. in the pre-internet age, it was indispesible.

    try to get an old copy, before they took all the fat out, and don't make their biscuits. bless their hearts.
  • Subject: Re: favorite cookbooks - multinational to old standby?

    alafairnadia wrote: I'd say I want a veggie/vegan cookbook but that'd be a lie. I prefer eating food that isn't trying to imitate the texture of meat, so I'd rather get a tofu recipe from asians, etc. just my own thing. and J#### (fellow cuban) - I tried seitan again and seriously, the flavor, for whatever reason, is a bit noxious to me and I can't deal with it. I'd rather go without protein and drop dead than eat that stuff. seriously. and this was homemade by a vegan hippie expat from the pacific northwest.
    FWIW - a veg*n cookbook worth its weight won't have recipes "trying to imitate the texture of meat," but rather will focus on trying to highlight the flavors/textures of the starring veggies themselves.

    If you're willing to reconsider your stance on veggie cookbooks, I recommend Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone or any of the Moosewood cookbooks. Although it is a bit vanilla, someone gave me Bittman's veg cookbook and I've found it a handy reference (technical stuff as well as basic recipes of all sorts).

    And if you want to go hardcore with the ingredient/technique reading, there is always "On Food and Cooking"

    (And incidentally - I'm not a seitan fan myself, although I am veggie)
  • I 2nd the JOY OF COOKING. I can't live without mine.

    I have a cookbook from a cooking class I took in Thailand. I'll let you peruse it if you like.
  • i just skimmed so sorry if i missed something... my go to is alice waters' "the art of cooking", also the encyclopedic "silver spoon" (italian), "1080 recipes" (spanish). if you're really interested in the science, read harold mcgee "on food and cooking." also, mark bittman was on npr the other day talking about his updated classic "how to cook everything"
  • wow, guys, thanks.

    and sorry for my absurdly super long initial post. I sometimes think of too many things all at once and try to get them out without editing.

    re: veggie/vegan, partly my issue is that since I'm not those things, it seems like "why?" but, at the same time, learning to deal with whole chickens (as in head-on, legs-on, a few feathers still on, etc.) is making me appreciate both how scary it is to face something that still looks like a whole animal that's been recently killed. and I'm working with that and finally getting to be okay with it - it's shocking, but whatever. so are some scary freaks on the subway. I try to adapt. also, frankly, the veg books you mentioned were on my mom's hippie bookshelf which lead her to torture me with carob chip cookies. and is it just me or are the moosewood recipes super bland? I always feel like I'm just eating some stuff with texture but has only minimal flavor. eh. but! thank you for suggesting them. :)

    what about vietnamese, korean and chinese food?

    yeah, I'll have net access but sometimes when you just want to look something up, you know you need to check a book. what edition of joy of cooking is still worth having? I'll see if I can track one down on half.com or something.
  • I used to live with a Chinese girl and she never used recipes or cookbooks for Chinese food. However, the number of ingredients she needed for each dish was MASSIVE.
  • alafairnadia wrote: and is it just me or are the moosewood recipes super bland? .
    it is not just you. i have this book, but i hesitate to recommend it.

    i'd aim for a "joy" from before the 80s. surely there's some obsessive blog on the topic.

    i have the bittman book...it's pretty good, but far from perfect. i suppose it's kind of an updated "joy" in some ways. i feel like it has a lot of recipes but less advice than i'd like, but then again, i already knew a lot about cooking by the time i got it.

    what's been VERY useful are the two books i have about ingredients. one is mostly pictures (a coffee table book), and the other has more writing. i use them in tandem. bring home chinatown mystery veg. identify with picture book. now armed with name, look up in index of word book.
  • i second the recommendation for Deborah Madison's -Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone-. it is not At All like the moosewoods or the very hippie vegetarian books which, i agree, are very bland and generally not worth your time. Deborah Madison's however, is an extremely useful book for Everything that is not meat. she is very much about simple and straightforward but not at all boring (in the Alice Waters sort of way). there is No attempt to imitate meat flavors or textures (her tofu recipes, for example, are the asian sort that you mentioned). it also serves as a great basic foundation for cooking--she touches on all the cooking fundamentals. she also has a good sampling of flavors from around the world--not perfectly authentic, i am sure, but spectacular nonetheless. i can't really say enough about how fantastic this book is. AND there Is a good reason for an omnivore to have a vegetarian book (This vegetarian book, especially): most omnivore-oriented books really to give little attention to using non-meat foods in creative or interesting ways--even if you plan on eating meat for every meal of every day you still want the things sitting next to or under it to live up to their fullest potential. seriously, i cannot recommend it highly enough. i cook A Lot and have a number of cookbooks and this is one is definitely the desert island book. i should also mention that being a Cuban/Chilean who grew up in miami, mine is not really a typical 'middle-america' palate so i tend to find things that lean in this direction (Joy of Cooking, Moosewood and regional US books come to mind) not a good fit for my personal tastes.
  • ^actually, one reason i like the edna lewis and bill neal books so much is that they deal with real southern cooking (not just restaurant food), which is lots and lots about vegetables (not only collards, either).

    i'm hoping someone will have a good vietnamese book rec. i use this site sometimes; it's been okay, but i'd love a book.
  • For general cookery, classic American dishes, etc, I swear by James Beard's classic, "American Cookery." It's way better than Joy of Cooking, and you can undoubtedly pick up a used copy for cheap. I also have "Professional Cooking" by Gisslen, which I got for an intro cooking class I took in college. That book is also decent for basics, but the ingredients tend to be listed by weight, which can be a hassle, and all the recipes need to be scaled down if you're not making huge batches. It is very good for learning basic techniques though (like how to cut up a chicken, etc.), rather than as a source of recipes. We have the Bittman book, and I like his column, but I haven't used the book much yet.

    For Indian food, I like Julie Sahni's "Classic Indian Cooking." She also wrote a vegetarian Indian book, but I don't have it. Madhur Jaffrey has some good Indian cookbooks, but I like Julie Sahni better. Also, Mrs. C took detailed notes from our cooking classes in Kerala, and I took pictures and videos. At some point, we'll compile these into electronic recipes we can e-mail you.

    Charmaine Solomon's "Complete Asian Cookbook" is a good resource, although it isn't by any means a definitive book for any one cuisine.

    We haven't made that much from it yet, but so far, Mrs. C likes Mai Pham's "Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table" (better than Nguyen's "Into the Vietnamese Kitchen"). Mrs. C and I also have notes from a cooking class we took in Hoi An.

    For Italian classics, I love Marcella Hazan's "Classic Italian Cookbook" and the sequel "More Classic Italian Cooking." I like Batali's books too and I have some of them. Also, "The Splendid Table" is a good book for northern Italian cooking, but the recipes are complicated and the food isn't exactly light.

    For Greek food, Diane Kochilas' "The Glorious Foods of Greece" is great, but we haven't made too much from it yet.

    I've got at least a half-dozen Chinese cookbooks, but not one that I can recommend above others as a source.

    Other favorites:

    For quick weeknight stuff, I like the 60 Minute Gourmet cookbooks.
    Craig Claiborne's "New York Times Cookbook"
    David Rosengraten's "Dean and DeLuca Cookbook"
    Not a cookbook, but I'll second bebklyn in recommending an amazing food book, Harold McGee "On Food and Cooking"

    For AFN (or anyone else who's interested and not psycho), you're welcome to come over and browse through cookbooks and copy any recipes you want. We've got somewhere between 100 and 150 of them, not counting Mrs. C's binders from cooking school. I think a good way to quickly copy recipes is to take digital images using the macro setting and then giving the file a name that will make it easy to find in your recipe library (I don't think OCR is good enough yet to convert to text, but that's always an option down the line).
  • Most of mine is OG.

    The three Peanut's cook books, lunch time and otherwise by Charles Schulz, The Galloping Gourmet by Graham Kerr, and a seafood cookbook by Frank Davis. Otherwise I have a few Gordon Ramsay's and The New England Clam Shack Cook Book.

    I also second Carnivore's opinion on James Beard.
  • Tyler Florence's Eat This Book: Cooking With Global Fresh Flavors

    It has basic, simple recipes. But they are classics that you go back to again and again. I made the majority of the recipes in this cookbook and loved them. This reminds me, I need to get a replacement copy of this (mine was stolen when someone broke into my apt last yr).

    alafairnadia, I know you already have a Jamie Oliver cookbook but his Jamie's Dinners is also a goodie.
  • Anyone remember...

    image

    ?
  • we have their second book. it's really not bad for basics, but then you run head-on into Incredibly Eighties Foods.
  • sweet tea wrote: but then you run head-on into Incredibly Eighties Foods.
    Hah, nailed it.

    Warning: Must cook with shoulder pads on and/or blazer sleeves rolled-up.
  • jeffrey wrote: [quote=sweet tea]but then you run head-on into Incredibly Eighties Foods.
    Hah, nailed it.

    Warning: Must cook with shoulder pads on and/or blazer sleeves rolled-up.

    ...and listening to Duran Duran, Bananarama, early Madonna, Crowded House, Frankie Goes to Hollywood and Rick Springfield in rotation...
  • carny,

    mom of AFN and I are in. we'd love to take a look. amazon ships to my new, super seekrit post office box address in ecuador. ocr would be fine if we just scanned the page - original printed text is like 99.99% accurate if the printed text comes from something in the last 20 years or so. mimeograph is not original, btw. :D

    but. I don't feel like glass scanning or having a computer open while cooking. so. books!

    darla,

    tyler florence? really? I mean, he seems nice enough but the only time I've eaten his food was in one of the dakotas at that horrid chain restaurant (tgi friday's, applebees? they all look the same) and I ordered something that appeared on the menu photo (WHOOPS) to be an arugula salad with fresh mozz and grape tomatoes (how they'd get those in bumblefuck is beyond me but I'm sure it involves gov't conspiracy and radiation) with a bit of chicken. it turned out to be a giant slab of estrogen, breaded, deep-fried and covered in shoulda-been-stir-fried argula (actually, covered as in strech-leaf-as-far-as-possible - this shit is expensive) and a piece of mozz that you get next to the milk. tomato? not so much. so I kinda think he's a fraud. but that's just my ONLY experience with him/his product. I've heard, however, he's a nice guy. you like his recipes?
  • alafairnadia wrote:
    darla,

    tyler florence? really? I mean, he seems nice enough but the only time I've eaten his food was in one of the dakotas at that horrid chain restaurant (tgi friday's, applebees? they all look the same) and I ordered something that appeared on the menu photo (WHOOPS) to be an arugula salad with fresh mozz and grape tomatoes (how they'd get those in bumblefuck is beyond me but I'm sure it involves gov't conspiracy and radiation) with a bit of chicken. it turned out to be a giant slab of estrogen, breaded, deep-fried and covered in shoulda-been-stir-fried argula (actually, covered as in strech-leaf-as-far-as-possible - this shit is expensive) and a piece of mozz that you get next to the milk. tomato? not so much. so I kinda think he's a fraud. but that's just my ONLY experience with him/his product. I've heard, however, he's a nice guy. you like his recipes?

    yes, sometimes bad things happen to good people. the tyler florence and applebees partnership was a bad choice.

    his recipes are good and not complicated at all (no 50 ingredient long list and tons of prep work). it's getting back to the basics of why we love food and appreciating the flavors rather than masking it with everything under the sun. it's teh same reason why i love jamie oliver.

    tyler seems like he has a great personality and he is gorgeous to boot!
  • cool, thanks for the info. I think I'm going to hold off on any basics book mostly b/c my mom's books will be readily available and she apparently has 2 or 3 core books, some from my grandmother, so they're unaffected by internets, trans-fat concerns, etc. one of them apparently has all of the making buttermilk, how to butcher a chicken, etc.
  • I love reading cookbooks, even though I know I won't cook most of what I read.

    for old southern recipes (and some amazing, easy desserts) I love Southern Accent. The lemon bar recipe on the website is one of my favorites (I probably add more lemon juice, though) and the bars are always a huge hit with others.

    http://www.jlpb.net/cookbook.htm
    (the first edition is what I have)
  • okay, couldn't read all your post either, but I want IN . . .
    the Bittman How To Cook Everything would be totally useful, supersimple, comprehensive. It's Too Simple for some, but I think it's ...handy.

    VIETNAMESE - Mai Pham "Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table"
    excellent, straightforward, delicious. Hanoi shrimp cakes. ginger steamed fish. Cilantro and ginger you can find where you are going...

    The Alford/Duguid books are big gorgeous heavy picture books, but their "SEDUCTIONS OF RICE" (avail in paperback, multinational in focus, could keep you happy in variety for a year or more) and HomeBaking are top knotch.
    Fuschia Dunlop for Chinese (Hunan or Szechuan) although I've only cooked a few mapo tofuy things.

    For new American based in Cali and France, the Zuni Cafe Cookbook is stellar. It looks like lots of instructions, but really the recipes themselves are totally do-able. She just writes for four pages before she gets to the part you actually do. Information is power, right? In this case, information is deeeelicious ceasar salad and mock porchetta.

    For the South, I total dig Edna Lewis with Scott Peacock, as above. (I must have overlooked the fussy pages) Fry a chicken, bake a perfect chocolate cake.

    Since it's uh YOU, I'm surprised you don't just roll around in the bounty of the internet. Between Food Network and BabboNYC, the Batali food is well documented. Although I really like Molto Italiano and the Babbo book for the Sicilian Lifeguard Squid. Don't ask, just cook it asap. You'll need capers, currants, and pine nuts.

    A weird old favorite around here is The Gourmet Garage Cookbook.

    Did you already talk about Diana Kennedy? I carried one of those with me to Mexico, and I was only there for a month...
    : )

    p.s. you said ice cream maker? how about Perfect Scoop from David Lebovitz? Bookmark his site....love love love
  • oh wow! thanks, pitu. the prob with the internets is that printing is expensive and kitchen + laptop = disaster. I've also ceased to depend on electronic sources for all data - hell, I'll be getting a safety deposit box for a rotating hard drive of backup data given the theft levels.

    criminals don't really like books. heh.

    I think I saw the molto mario where he makes the squid - I kinda wanted to tackle the tv for it. will do it once I'm there. I will be experimenting on more house building workers. haha!

    they're used to eating rice, lentils and potatoes. I torture them with spicy beef veggie stew and such. then I puree it for the "light" dinner and dollop it with crema fresca. my own little non-gourmet kitchen full of hungry construction workers.
  • My 80's Joy of Cooking is what I always go back.... I have at least 150 cookbooks (from late 1800's to present time) plus almost every most issue of Saveur since #1. Still go back to Joy! Epicurious.com and Foodtv.com are good for recipe ideas though...
  • Oh for vegetarian.... If you can find a Laurel's.
  • gah! just had a slight the silver spoon related not disaster disaster. was attempting to make the bechamel and spinach ricotta gnocchi combo when, well, I ended up with spinach ricotta soup topped with bechamel that took like a freaking hour to prepare.

    has anyone managed to make those gnocchi work?

    the bechamel issue was more related to crappy cookware and a really shitty stove than anything but the gnocchi ... no clue. they just fell apart. amusingly, I´d said just before I started dropping them in that if they weren´t right, we´d have a great spinach soup ...
  • well, I used the silver spoon and redeemed it. made some tomato sauce with some molding tomatoes my dad bought a day ago at market (he doesn´t get the bag rule yet). but. um. I modified it again.

    6 cloves of garlic, all the tomatoes I had, salt, red chili (crushed), sugar (brown), and olive oil. so maybe not so much a classic recipe but it tastes good, and my family likes the flavor. we are saving it for either feeding our vegan friend or making a cream sauce.
  • This is another old post, but I feel the need to contribute:

    I really like Bittman's book. A lot of people don't, but whenever I hit a "now what do I do with X" moment, his book usually has the answer. And from there I usually improvise. I think that his recipes are also helpful jumping-off points for improvisation (okay, he's using dried cherries, but what about figs?)

    I also like the Cook's Illustrated's The Best Recipe. Again, it's great for basics, and I often find myself using both books in combination when I want to see what my options are. The book is, however, very US-centric with its advice, esp. WRT equipment, so that might not be the best option if you're in Equador.

    Marcella Hazan for Italian.

    Julia and Jaques Cooking at Home for inspiration when I want to do something special.

    I'm also a big fan of Epicurious.com.

    In general I don't cook Indian food at home because every dish uses eleventy-million spices. I don't have room in the spice cabinet.
  • i'm feeling really burned* by bittman lately. seems like every time i look something up, he only has 900 ways to grill it.

    *unintentional pun
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