Anyone been to Charleston, SC

Subject: Charleston fish

Charleston is beautiful, and I envy you. Walk around the old Frenchy part close to the water late at night...

There a great fish place that is advertised as a Real Jewish Deli - I am totally blanking on the name tho. The ambience was a little dorky, but the food was great. We took takeout to our hideout...

you might want to nose around the chowhound site - they are fiendish about this sort of thing

We were just there in the spring -- at kiawah island. We had a great time there -- the beach, the bike trails, etc.

We have two small kids, so our dining out was limited. We did eat at both Magnolia and SNOB, both of which were fantastic. They are right on the main drag. I highly recommend them.

Don't forget that you are truly in the south down there. I think 75% of the radio stations were "spiritual", racial division on economic terms are quite visible and pride over the Confederacy is more than just a tourist gimmick. Fortunately, our family is so non-traditional, I don't think anyone could figure us out enough to be offended.

You are not in Brooklyn any more, Dorothy!

We really did have a great time though. Enjoy!

Subject: Charleston

Hey Everyone -

By way of introduction, I'm a college friend of EmilyM's [edited to avoid publicizing my full name --EmilyM] who grew up in Charleston and now lives on a small island across the river from most of y'all (though I have been known to make it to Brooklyn every once in a while).

Stacey - have fun! Folly Beach, aka "The Edge of America," is itself pretty interesting. Once a surfer / artsy community, it's slowly being overrun by the yuppification that is omnipresent throughout the entire East Coast. Make sure you check out some of the bars, especially the Sand Dollar (a "social club" where membership is available to all comers for something like a buck). Dollar Wednesdays used to be a big deal; maybe they still are. Also, make sure you walk to both ends of the beach. The Morris Island Lighthouse in the surf of the east end is spectacular at sunrise and sunset (www.savethelight.org), and Bird Key off the west end is a state-protected rookery.

Unfortunately, I don't know what Bral was talking about regarding local radio. You're in the US, so there's public radio available (at 89.3fm). There are a large number of rock stations, including 96 Wave (96.1fm), a station that prides itself on its independence. The sound does tend to the early 90s, which isn't a bad thing. The Sunday morning show is outstanding - check out last Sunday's playlist here: (http://www.96wave.com/138/?form_136.replyids=97&form_130.replyids=3&form_136.userid=12). Regarding the Confederacy, you will certainly find it in many places, perhaps even some surprising ones. The Revolution also weighs heavily - it's odd to be in an American city that peaked almost 200 years ago. The ebb and flow of race relations are part of the fabric of the city, past and present, and the current gentrification trend is both exacerbating and relieving those tensions, much as in Prospect Heights. Check out areas up by the Crosstown and Citadel to see this in action. Note also that the long-serving police chief, Reuben Greenberg, is one of the most sought-after in the country - and he's both African-American and Jewish.

But you asked about food. A previous poster referred to a Jewish-sounding seafood place, which I think is Hyman's. With all due respect, I say avoid it. It's a tourist trap. Another poster suggested Magnolia's and SNOB (aka Slightly North of Broad) - those are both excellent, and SNOB is one of my favorite places to eat. Another personal favorite is FIG (aka Food Is Good - and not all restaurants have cutesy acronyms, I swear). Mike Latta, the chef, is a subscriber to the slow food process, and the food he cooks is sublime - incredibly simple, yet impossible to replicate. Definitely go there. The place mentioned by the Lee Bros* in the Times this morning, Hominy Grill, is also outstanding. It's also in a gentrifying neighborhood for the sociologist in you. If you feel like breaking the bank, I've heard Peninsula Grill is out of this world.

If you're looking for something a bit more down-to-earth, try The Wreck in Mount Pleasant (across the brand-spanking new harbor bridge that just opened last weekend). It's a fried seafood joint that's utterly affect-free, and they know how to fry. It is a bit hard to find, though. Also, Bowen's Island on Folly Road is a great place to sample the Lowcountry delicacy of roasted oysters - though it may be closed this time of year. For SC-style mustard-based BBQ, try Sticky Fingers or Melvins. Fast & French on Broad St is a fun, inexpensive place, and the communal tables are part of the charm. Finally, good quick bites are available at Andolini's Pizza or Juanita Greenberg's Burrito Palace, if you find yourself downtown and craving something light. As long as you're a bit away from the Market (Charleston's Times Square), it's tough to go wrong. The Times travel and dining articles by RW Apple, the Lee Brothers, and regular writers also offer a good guide. I would, however, avoid the article written in May by the 17 year-old. It's cute, but it tends to point you towards tourist traps.

Another thing that Charleston does a good job of is drinking. In addition to the Sand Dollar, I would recommend checking out the Rooftop at Vendue one night a little before sunset - the Harbor view is phenomenal (and Wednesdays, there's usually a sailboat race to make it nicer). An old favorite of mine is the Blind Tiger on Broad St - the backyard is amazing, though the crowd has become a bit more annoying recently. Upper King St has a good number of laid-back places, especially A.C.'s. And, in the off chance you make it over to Sullivans Island, the front porch bar at Poe's is a wonderful place to catch, and shoot, the breeze. As a weird historical sidebar, the radio station 96 Wave is largely the reason why you can buy beer and wine in retail outlets on Sundays in Charleston County (unlike the rest of the state). They pushed to put the issue on a referendum ballot a few years back, then pushed to get it passed. So much for non-progressive radio, I guess.

And Riverdogs games are a lot of fun - any team part owned by Bill Murray is going to be a bit interesting. And, though it pains me to say it, they are now part of the Yankees farm network. The Battery, the local professional soccer club, is also really fun - the owners have tried to make it more like a European club, including putting a pub on the grounds.

Well, enough of my ranting. Have a blast!!! It's a great place. I'd leave any prejudices at the door and go see it for myself - it's an old, beautiful, very quirky, and totally unique place.

Best -
Jamie

*The Lee Brothers are native Charlestonians who, in addition to writing for the Times, run a Southern goods "importation" business (www.boiledpeanuts.com). They currently reside in Harlem.


[Now I just wish I were the one going there! --EM]

Just to be clear -- we loved Charleston and Kiawah Island. We had a wonderful trip and would definitely go back. I wasn't trying to do any southern stereotyping either, but it was striking how different it was culturally. It sort of brought home the reality of that whole red state vs. blue state thing.

Understand our vantage point -- a mixed race (black and white) gay couple with multi-racial kids. We are so used to being unremarkable in Brooklyn, we just felt like we were in a foreign country. Confederate flag bumperstickers on pick-up trucks with gun racks give us the creeps, sorry.

A few other hits from our trip.
- if you have kids the aquarium is very nice and also manageable
- there is an ancient tree called "angel oak" which is unbelievably beautiful. I doubt its as old as they say, but its definitely remarkable nonetheless.
- if you want high-end, the Sanctuary Hotel on Kiawah Island is gorgeous for dining or cocktails
- above all though, it was the graceful southern architecture that charmed us the most. Its a really lovely place. Take your time and stroll. Go on the house tours.

I will challenge you on the radio issue. Driving through SC, our search button came up "Jesus", "Jesus", "Jesus". I think we found one classic rock station that we finally settled on.

Enjoy your trip (and leave your carb counting in NY)! Its really a gem of a place.

Subject: Your challenge responded to

Bral - thanks for responding, and I'll try to see you and raise you here!

I think your qualifier of "driving through South Carolina" may be the critical difference. Just as Brooklyn is very different from Schenectady, so is Charleston from much of South Carolina. All coastal and port cities tend to be more cosmopolitan than their corresponding inland areas. I cannot speak as to the radio stations in Greenville and Columbia, and frankly I try to avoid that part of the world. However, the radio scene in Charleston is remarkably good, defined by a couple of independent stations (such as 96 Wave) and a few independent producers, such as Gary Erwin (aka Shrimp City Slim and host of various blues and zydeco shows on public radio), Osei Chandler and Jabari A (hosts of reggae shows on both public and commercial radio), and the Critic, whose show I mentioned (and linked) in my previous post. If you haven't clicked on that link yet, I encourage you to.

The ghost tours are kind of a new-fangled thing, but they're incredibly popular. The one run by the Buxton brothers (the "original" I think call themselves) is the only one I know anything about, and I've heard it's good. Most importantly, they provide a great introduction to the fabric of the city - at night, which in the summer is much nicer than the day. And the way to see the city is just to stroll around it, for sure. Avoid the carriage and bus tours.

Angel Oak is good fun - great recommendation, as is the sleepy village of Rockville about 10 miles further down that highway. Also worthwhile are the plantations on Highway 61 (Ashley River Rd) - Middleton Place, Magnolia Gardens, and Drayton Hall.

I'm sorry that you felt uncomfortable in South Carolina - that should never happen to anyone - though I totally empathize with your perspective. If you're ever down there again, pick up a copy of the City Paper (www.charlestoncitypaper.com, or any other free weekly) and scratch around a bit behind those bumper stickers. For sure, you're not in Brooklyn, but I imagine you may also find a more diverse, vibrant, and supportive community than that of your first impression. I certainly hope so! Interestingly, Folly Beach (where Stacey is staying) has traditionally been one of the more progressive areas in the region.

All the best, and I continue to wish you the best on your trip -
Jamie

Thanks for your thoroughness, Jamie--not that I'm surprised by it --I'm bookmarking this for when I get down there.

Now to the more important matter...when are you moving to Brooklyn?

EmilyM wrote: Thanks for your thoroughness, Jamie--not that I'm surprised by it --I'm bookmarking this for when I get down there.

Now to the more important matter...when are you moving to Brooklyn?

Actually the more important questions are:

• When are you moving to Brooklyn?

• Have you called your mother lately?

• Are you wearing clean underwear?

• What are going to settle down with a nice girl?

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