Nice review for Sugarcane (Flatbush and Bergen) from the Dai

Island flavor

Caribbean jerk chicken at Sugarcane.
Q: It's been a rainy summer, and I miss the sunshine. Where can I dine in the city that'll make me feel like I'm on vacation someplace warm and sunny?

A: You don't have to leave New York City to feel like you're in the Islands. Sugarcane, on Flatbush Ave., has a lively tropical feel and serves innovative pan-Caribbean dishes that are so hot, you'll wish you'd brought your swim trunks.

As calypso and hip-hop music wafts over the tables, kick off your meal with accras with Congo pepper tartar sauce ($7.95). These West Indian fish cakes, seasoned with onions and sweet peppers, taste like they just came in from the sea.

The mojo jerk chicken wings ($7.95) are also wonderfully flavorful. Even though they're spicy enough to make you break a sweat, the passion fruit vinaigrette and mango mayonnaise dipping sauce soften the bite. If all the starters look too good to choose, relax - remember, you're supposed to be in the Caribbean - and try Sugarcane's appetizer sampler ($16.95), which includes balisier shrimp ($10.95) and Kree's bacchanal chicken ($8.95).

With such large portions, it's important to remember to leave room for entrees. Far and away the most talked about dish on the menu is the deep-fried plantain crusted red snapper (market price) that's served with a Creole sauce - as light and refreshing as aloe on a sunburn. You can't go wrong with the guava barbecue salmon ($18.95), either. Its fruity sauce enlivens the fish with tangy flavor. All entrees come with a choice of two sides. For a genuine Caribbean feel, go with the callaloo, a spicy vegetable puré, and the sautéed cabbage.

If your appetite survives the main course, the carrot cake with coconut ice cream is a delicious finale.

Not to be overlooked, the drink list at Sugarcane is just as impressive, with an amazing variety of fruity mojitos, martinis, daiquiris, margaritas, coladas and infused rum shots. The Sorrel Martini ($8), a blend of Absolute Kurrant, sorrel and lime juice, will satisfy even the most fanatic sweet tooth, while the Grand Stand Margarita, made from 1800 Tequila, Grand Marnier, lime juice and orange juice, appeals to those with a more subtle palate.

If you're looking for a quick bite, Sugarcane is not the restaurant for you. The kitchen takes its time to carefully prepare your order, but if you relax, have a few drinks and explore the eclectic menu, you'll be rewarded for your wait with a meal good enough to take you away to paradise.

Jacob E. Osterhout

Sugarcane

238 Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn; (718) 230-3954; 2/3 to Bergen St.; Tues.-Thurs., 5:30 p.m.-midnight; Fri.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-2 a.m.; Sun., 3 p.m.-midnight.

Must-haves

Appetizer: Cassava and scallion fritters ($6.95)
Entree: Braised oxtails with callaloo and coconut rice ($17.95)
Dessert: Carrot cake and coconut ice cream ($6)

Originally published on July 4, 2006

http://www.nydailynews.com/07-02-2006/city_life/food/story/432478p-364403c.html